By Syd

It was the best of times; it was the worst of times… No, wait — wrong story. I bought a Smith & Wesson Model 60-15 for a practice gun. This is their 3 barrel .357 Magnum version of the Model 60 in stainless steel. Its a nice gun, with a full-length grip and adjustable sights. Not being content to leave a pretty good gun alone, I decided to install a Wolff reduced power spring kit in it. The reduced power kit includes two springs: the rebound spring and the hammer spring.

Why do this? The springs in a handgun force the various parts against each other, insuring a firm and positive engagement of the critical elements of the action: trigger, sear, and hammer. Without adequate pressure, these parts may not function properly and the gun may even become dangerous or malfunction. On the other hand, the manufacturer will always err on the side of caution and build too much pressure into the action for liability and reliability reasons. This inevitably results in a rough and heavy trigger. So, a judicious reduction of spring pressure can improve the trigger without compromising function. There are two ways to improve the trigger in any handgun: polish the action interfaces and reduce spring pressure. But if you do too much of either, the gun will become dangerous and unreliable. This is why smart people take their guns to someone who knows what they are doing to get their triggers smoothed and lightened.

Smith & Wesson revolvers have something called a rebound slide which is powered by a spring. The function of the rebound slide is to push the trigger back into the ready position after the trigger is pulled. It resets the action for the next shot. The energy for this operation is provided by a strong spring which resides inside of the rebound slide. The rebound slide sits in a channel in the frame just behind the trigger. It is held in place by a post which extends from the side of the frame. Getting this little demon from hell in and out is the worst part about working on a Smith & Wesson revolver. Brownells makes a tool which helps somewhat in getting the rebound spring back in, but its still a PITA.

One resource I consider indispensable to this operation is Kuhnhausens S&W Revolver, A Shop Manual. In fact, I will state this in terms of an imperative: Do not attempt this operation without the Kuhnhausen manual. Kuhnhausen walks you through the disassembly process and the elements of lightening a trigger.

Once inside the Model 60, I did some polishing on the sear interfaces and the area where the rebound slide moves inside the frame and makes contact with the trigger. I polished the rebound slide itself. I am a very gentle polisher. I use red jewelers rouge and a variable power Dremel with a felt polishing bit. I also have a couple of Arkansas white whetstones that I use for smoothing and rounding over edges. I almost never grind or cut metal, especially on sears. Many of the action parts in guns these days are Metal Injection Molded (MIM). Their surfaces are hard, but they are thin. The metal inside MIM parts is somewhat softer, and if you grind through the hard surface into the soft interior metal you will ruin the part and leave it non-functional. Grinding or cutting may also change the sear interface angles and this can result in a dangerous and/or unreliable gun. Anything more than a gentle polish and lubrication of these interfaces should only be done by a certified gunsmith. I polished and lubed with Mil-Comm and put the gun back together. I was very pleased with the results. The trigger is a little bit lighter but not a whole lot, but it is very smooth.

Following my stunning success with changing out the spring set in the Model 60, I decided that I’d take on the Airweight. Should be all the same, right? Wrong. I took it all apart, cleaned out eight years worth of crud, polished and lubed. I installed the same springs I used in the Model 60 the 8 lb. hammer spring and the 14 lb. rebound spring. No matter what I did, the rebound slide wouldn’t work right with the Wolff spring in it. It would buck up in the front instead of moving straight back when the trigger was pulled. I took the thing in and out so many times that my thumb got raw from putting the rebound spring back in. Then to make matters worse, I pulled the cylinder hand off of the trigger, not realizing that there was a little spring hidden in the body of the trigger. Of course, when I put it back together, it didn’t work right. Research project. Oh, there’s a little spring somewhere. Miracle of miracles, I managed to find the spring among the dust bunnies and I had no idea of how it went back in. Spent some time searching the Smith & Wesson forum and found some instructions for how to get the little child of Satan back in. (Its also in the Kuhnhausen manual, but I didnt know that at the time.) Getting the spring back in wasn’t too terribly hard. The rebound slide bucking was another thing, however. Nothing I did would make it work. I finally put the stock rebound spring back in and everything was Jake.

It’s fairly smooth now (although it was pretty good before), but it left me with the impression that not all j-frames are created equal. I cant say Im completely happy with the job on the Airweight. It also left me with the realization of how delicately tuned and balanced the components of revolvers are, and changing springs and such in and out of them is more perilous than analogous operations on bottom feeders.

The last thing that needs to be said about this relatively simple operation is that it’s a far cry from a full action job that you would get from one of the revolver action masters like Teddy Jacobson. A full action job would include truing up the sear faces, adjusting the let-out of the double action sear, checking the cylinder yoke for straightness, eliminating end shake in the cylinder, and other elegant pieces of voodoo that only those guys know. Such things are way beyond the scope of this article, at least for now. Just be aware that there is much more to a full action job in a revolver than just switching out the springs. In some respects, the action of the revolver is far more complex and esoteric than a semi-auto action. The interaction of the parts is delicately balanced, not unlike a watch, and the inner workings of the lockwork are less intuitive to understand, requiring serious study to master. A simple “keep you out of trouble” rule would be, “If you don’t know the answer, don’t do the operation.”

By John Taffin

Mention Smith & Wesson and most shooters will immediately think of one of two things, either big bore Magnum sixguns, or state-of-the-art semi-automatic pistols. As a writer I’ve spread a lot of ink discussing both of these types and as a shooter I’ve run thousands of bullets down the barrels of slick shootin’ Smith sixguns and fast-firing defensive pistols. But there are other Smith & Wessons such as the Model 41 .22 target pistol and the epitome of target guns from a few decades ago, the K-38 .38 Special and the K-22 .22 Long rifle, the famous Masterpiece revolvers.

All of these handguns are guns that I would label high exposure. They are seen at target ranges, in the hunting field, worn openly on the belt of peace officers, as well as campers, hikers, fisherman, in fact, all types of sportsmen. Chambered in .22 they are used not only for target shooting but by thousands upon thousands of families enjoying the great sport of plinking together. Larger calibers are carried for more serious purposes such as hunting and law enforcement.

There is another whole class of Smith & Wesson handguns, a group of revolvers rarely ever seen. These are the guns carried concealed by civilians and peace officers alike. These are the guns kept in countless bedside stands, under store counters, in tackle boxes, and day packs. These lightweight easily concealable handguns are the J-frames. Smith & Wesson has long utilized the alphabet to distinguish their revolvers: the N-frames, the largest .41 and .44 Magnum, .45 Colt, .45 ACP, and even .357 Magnum; the middle-sized K-frames, the .357 “Combat Magnum” and earlier mentioned Masterpiece revolvers; the L-frame, the newest intermediate sized .357 Magnum; and finally the diminutive J-frames chambered in .38 Special, .32 Magnum, .22 Long Rifle, and .22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire.

History of the J-Frame

The first small frame double action Smith & Wesson, a .38, was built in 1880. This was not the famous .38 Special which would come later, but the less powerful .38 S&W. The first .38 DA weighed 18 ounces and would go through five design changes, thirty-one years of production, and number more than one-half million examples of top-break design. These were followed by the Perfected Model .38 with a solid frame/trigger guard combination , but still of the top break design, that led the way for the solid frame, swing out cylinder revolvers to come.

At the same time that the top-break .38’s were being made, the same basic design was offered in .32 S&W caliber with nearly 300,000 of the smaller caliber being made. Shortly after production began on the .38 and .32 Smith & Wesson Double Action Models, D.B. Wesson worked with son Joseph to develop a completely different style of revolver. Lucian Cary, a well known gun writer of forty years ago relates the following legend.

“When Daniel Wesson read a newspaper story about a child who had shot himself with the family revolver, his conscience hurt. He told his wife that he would make a revolver that could be safely kept in the bureau drawer. It was his custom to receive his grandchildren every Sunday. No doubt it was tough on the grandchildren. Daniel Wesson must have been a fearsome man, with his thick body, his great beard, and his virtue (Cary obviously did not understand grandfathers and grand children and the bond between them!) But on one occasion it was his young grandchild who put it over.

The Safety Hammerless

Daniel Wesson made a revolver he thought no child could fire. He gave it to his grandson, Harold Wesson, now president of Smith & Wesson (this was in the 1950’s) and challenged him to fire it. Harold was only eight years old but he knew that his grandfather expected him to fail. Maybe that gave him a shot in the arm. Harold tugged at the trigger with all his strength and fired the gun. His grandfather went sadly back to his shop–not that day, of course, which was Sunday, but on the following Monday. Some weeks later he again presented a revolver to Harold and asked him to pull the trigger. Harold did his best. But he failed.

The gun the boy couldn’t fire was the New Departure, also known as the safety hammerless. It had a bar in the back of the grip supported by a spring. You had to squeeze the grip hard enough to depress the spring and pull the double action trigger at the same time in order to fire the gun. No child of eight had the strength to do both at once. The New Departure was an uncommonly safe bureau drawer revolver.”

The Safety Hammerless, so designated by the fact that the hammer was completely enclosed by the revolver frame, became the first really practical pocket gun. Five hundred thousand of these were made in .32 and .38 caliber from 1886 until 1940.

With the advent of the I-frame Smith & Wessons in 1894, the basic design was changed from top break to a solid frame, swing-out cylinder style of revolver. Over the years from before the turn of the Century until 1960, the I-frame was offered in .32 Hand Ejector, .22/32 Hand Ejector, which became the .22 Kit Gun, .32 Regulation Police, .38 Regulation Police, and .38 Terrier.

The Chief’s Special

In 1950, one of the most famous of the Smith & Wesson revolvers arrived. A five-shot, compact revolver to fire the more powerful .38 Special instead of the .38 S&W was introduced at the Conference of the International Association of Chief’s of Police in Colorado Springs, Colorado and has been officially and lovingly known as the Chief’s Special ever since. This was the first J-frame revolver and was larger than the I-frames and chambered in .22, .32 S&W Long, and .38 S&W. In 1960, all I-frames became J-frames.

The Chief’s Special has been offered in a number of versions along the way: the standard Model 36 in both round and square butt versions, the Airweight Model 37, the Model 38 Bodyguard which had an extended frame that protected the hammer and exposed only enough of the tip to allow for cocking. The Number “39” was used for Smith’s new double action 9MM Semi-automatic in the 1950’s, but the J-frames resumed with the Model 40 Centennial, a J-frame “Safety Hammerless”.

In 1965, a most significant J-frame variation appeared. One that was to have far reaching consequences throughout the firearms industry as the Model 36 Chief’s Special was offered as the Stainless Steel Model 60. Instantly popular with peace officers and outdoorsman alike, the first stainless steel revolver revolutionized firearms and stainless steel revolvers are now a major part of the handgun industry. Stainless is so much a part of the handgun market, and especially with the small frame concealable firearms that are carried closest to the body, that of the five J-frames I have been testing, four are stainless, and the fifth has been custom finished to look like stainless.

Metalife was applied to a Smith & Wesson Chief’s Special, a two-inch Model 36 .38 Special. Depending upon the weather, it has been carried in an inside the pants holster, in an ankle holster, in a boot top, and in the pocket of insulated coveralls. This particular revolver has been further customized by sending it to Teddy Jacobsen. Jacobsen is an ex-cop now in the gun smithing business and he did one of his famous action jobs on the little Chief’s Special along with polishing the trigger smooth, de-horning the hammer spur, and also jewelling both hammer and trigger. When combined with the Metalife finish, these modifications make the Model 36 into a near-perfect pocket pistol.

The only thing left to do to finish off the round butt Chief’s Special was to fit it with custom grips. I just happened to be carrying this little gun when I visited Herrett’s. I soon had a pair of Detective stocks for the Chief’s!

The modification makes the little Chief’s into a beautiful close range double action defensive pistol and the hammer can still be cocked for a longer deliberate single action shot by starting the trigger back and catching the hammer with the thumb to finish the cocking procedure.

As a companion piece to the 20 ounce Chief’s Special, I have been testing the same basic gun, in this case a Model 60 Stainless Steel “Chief’s Special”. Friend and gun writer Terry Murbach certainly deserves at least some of the credit for suggesting the .38 Special Stainless Steel that Murbach feels should be known as “The Trail Masterpiece”. This little 23 ounce, round butted .38 sports a three inch full under-lug barrel and fully adjustable sights. The sights are exactly the way they should be, black both fore and aft. Yes, even though the newest Model 60 is stainless, the rear sight assembly is black and the front sight blade is quick draw style, plain black and pinned to the stainless steel ramp.

Anyone who has read many of my articles know that my usual forte is the big and bold, the Magnum and beyond sixguns and the big bore semi-automatics. But I have definitely found a place in my collection for this little five-shooter. A Plus P five shooter I might add as Smith & Wesson does classify this little .38 as one that is able to handle the hotter loads. No little strength certainly comes from the fact that the Model 60 carries a full length cylinder with very little barrel protruding through the frame unsupported. The cylinder also, being a five shot, has the bolt cuts between chambers rather than under them.

J-Frame Variations

When the J-frame Smith & Wessons came in, I went to the local gun shop, Shapel & Son’s, and found three dusty old boxes down behind the counter containing long-out-of-production Jay Scott Gunfighter J-frame stocks. At the present time they ride unaltered on three J-frames but all will receive extensive customizing in the future which will see the removal of the finger grooves and the checkering that adorns two pair.

The Model 60 Trail Masterpiece wears plain walnut Gunfighter grips that will clean up very nicely as time and ambition permit making the Trail Masterpiece an even more desirable little fivegun for hiking, fishing, camping, etc. And with the right loads, the three-inch barreled .38 will make a fine little close range varmint and small game gun.

I can only find one fault with the Model 60 Trail Masterpiece and that is strictly the result of my own preference for smooth triggers. All other test J-frames came through with smooth triggers but the this three-inch .38 boasts a grooved trigger that you can bet will become a smooth trigger in the future as it will be sent to Jacobsen for one of his action jobs after a check to Smith & Wesson makes it mine.

Chic Gaylord, New York leather worker and the father of the modern concealment holster, was a real fan of the three-inch .38 Special and promoted a “Metropolitan Special Adaptation” of the Colt Police Positive consisting of three-inch barrel, ramp front sight, nickel finish, bird’s head butt, grip adapter, and trigger shoe. Another favorite of his was the three-inch Chief’s Special with Fitz Gunfighter grips. He would have loved the Trail Masterpiece.

The firing tests of the Model 60 .38 Special Trail Masterpiece gave quite pleasant results. Considering the short sight radius the three-inch barrel affords, and also considering that the test groups were fired at 25 yards, and especially when one considers that the groups were fired by my hand and eye combination, some groups border on the phenomenal. The two-inch .38 Special Chief’s Special was fired double action only on combat targets and not for group size. It proved to be quite capable as a defensive revolver.

SMITH & WESSON J-FRAMES

CALIBER: .38 SPECIAL TEMPERATURE: 60 DEGREES

CHRONOGRAPH: OEHLER MODEL 35P GROUPS: 5 SHOTS @ 25 YDS.

MODEL 060 3″ HB – – – MODEL 36 2″

LOAD – MV – GROUP – MV

RCBS #35-150 /6.0 UNIQUE – 975 – 2 1/2″ – 961

LYMAN #358156GC /5.0 UNIQUE – 716 – 3″ – 691

LYMAN #358429 /5.0 UNIQUE – 758 – 1 5/8″ – 720

158 SPEER SWC /5.0 UNIQUE – 750 – 2 5/8″ – 735

BULL-X 158 SWC /5.0 UNIQUE – 782 – 3 1/2″ – 708

LYMAN #358429 /6.6 AA#5 – 890 – 3 1/8″ – 815

158 SPEER SWC /6.6 AA#5 – 830 – 3 1/2″ – 795

BULL-X 158 SWC /6.6 AA#5 – 821 – 3″ – 785

BULL-X 148 WC /6.0 AA#5 – 861 – 2 3/8″ – 841

SIERRA 110 JHP /8.8 AA#5 – 1067 – 2 3/4″ – 1017

SPEER 140 JHP /6.0 UNIQUE – 934 – 1 5/8″ – 913

CCI LAWMAN 125 JHP +P – 1019 – 2 1/2″ – 932

BLACK HILLS 125 JHP – 864 – 3 1/4″ – 792

The .32 Magnum, heretofore offered in medium framed sixguns like the Ruger Bisley and Single-Six, the Dan Wesson double action, and the Smith & Wesson heavy underlugged barrel K-Masterpiece, is a natural for the little J-frame revolvers. Unlike the five shot .38 Special J-frames, the .32 Magnum is a six-shooter. My original request for test guns from Smith & Wesson was for a .32 Magnum and a .32 S&W Long J-frame, but both guns came through as .32 Magnums. One is a “Kit Gun”, a four inch barreled, adjustable sighted, easy packin’ Kit Gun. The other is quite the opposite, a three-inch Centennial Airweight .32 Magnum. The latter is a 16 ounce concealed hammer sixgun, a very easily concealed and even more easily packed aluminum framed revolver.

The four-inch, 23 ounce Model 631 Kit Gun is meant for the woods loafer, fisherman, camper, while the totally dehorned and no-sharp-corners, double action only Model 632 is the concealment counterpart. A defensive gun designed for the shooter who wants a powerful weapon without objectionable recoil. A .32 that can be shot well is certainly much better than a poorly handled lightweight .38 Special; a gun that is easily carried is certainly better than a heavy gun that is left behind. And even at its one pound weight, the .32 Airweight handles very pleasantly and pokes nice little groups double action style at 10 yards.

The adjustable sighted four-inch .32 Magnum is a two to three -inch gun at 25 yards. Load development may help reduce these groups in the future. A load that would be capable of head shooting squirrels, rabbits, and grouse at reasonable ranges would make the little .32 into a real gem.

SMITH & WESSON J-FRAMES

CALIBER: .32 MAGNUM TEMPERATURE: 60 DEGREES

CHRONOGRAPH: OEHLER MODEL 35P GROUPS: SIX SHOTS @ 25 YDS.

MODEL 631 4″ – – – MODEL 632 3″

LOAD – MV – GROUP – MV

FEDERAL 95 LEAD – 941 – 2 5/8″ – 895

FEDERAL 85 JHP – 1020 – 2 1/2″ – 954

NEI 100.313 /8.3 #2400 – 1131 – 2 3/8″ – 1043

NEI 100.313 /5.5 AA#5 – 1122 – 2 3/8″ – 1027

HORNADY 85 XTP /8.3 #2400 – 1044 – 3″ – 942

HORNADY 85 XTP /5.5 AA#5 – 1074 – 2 3/8″ – 924

SIERRA 90 JHP /8.3 #2400 – 1100 – 3″ – 952

SIERRA 90 JHP /5.5 AA#5 – 1070 – 2 7/8″ – 885

The final J-frame tested is one of Elmer Keith’s favorite guns resurrected for 1991. Elmer is best known for his work with the .44 Special from 1927 to 1955 and the .44 Magnum thereafter. But Elmer also used other guns and one of his favorites was the Smith & Wesson Kit Gun chambered for the .22 Winchester Magnum Rimfire.

J-Frames and Handgun Hunting

Elmer writing in 1961 in the second edition of his famous book SIXGUNS BY KEITH had this to say about the .22 Kit Gun: “Last winter Jack Nancolas, our local Government hunter killed three treed cougar and ten bobcats with my K model S.& W. .22 rim fire magnum and this winter he killed fifteen bob cats and two cougar with my 3 1/2″ barrel S.& W. kit gun for the same .22 R.F. Magnum load. The last cougar, a big one, jumped out over Jack’s head as he approached the tree in the hope of a brain shot. As it was getting late and he had trailed the big cat all day, he simply took a fast double action snap shot at the brute as he sailed over his head. The tiny soft-point slug hit the big cat square in the chest, penetrating his heart and thence the spine; and he folded up in the air like a duck stricken by a dose of no. 6 shot. His head sagged on his chest and his tail carried nearly vertical, he dropped to the horizontal and rolled into a ball before he ever hit the ground. Jack ran down the mountain and poured two more into his skull to be sure he would not hurt the dogs but he was already dead and they were not needed.”

The latest edition of the .22 WMR Kit Gun, the Model 651-1 is a four-inch, adjustable sighted, stainless steel, square butted, 26 ounce .22 sixgun. The rear sight is fully adjustable and plain black, very good, but the front sight is stainless steel with a red insert, not so good for my eyes in bright light. The front sight is also much too tall for my eyes and shooting style requiring the rear sight to be raised clear out of its mortise to sight the Kit Gun in at 25 yards. Since this .22 WMR is a keeper, the front sight will be replaced with a plain black post that will be filed to the right height to allow it to be sighted in at 25 yards with the rear sight all the way down.

While the Model 651-1 is a sixgun, it works much better as a five gun with five chambers able to put five shots in less that one inch at 25 yards. I will carry it fully loaded with six shots but with the best five coming up first. Probably the most practical of all the J-frames for the outdoorsman, with the right load and chamber selection, this little .22 is definitely capable of head shooting small game and varmints, and even putting the coup-de-grace on downed big game.

SMITH & WESSON MODEL 651

CALIBER: .22WMR BARREL LENGTH: 4″

CHRONOGRAPH: OEHLER MODEL 35P TEMPERATURE: 60 DEGREES

LOAD – MV – 6 SHOTS/25 YDS.

CCI .22 MAXI-MAG – 1335 – 2″

CCI MAXI-MAG HP – 1355 – 2 1/8″

CCI MAXI-MAG +V – 1608 – 2 3/8″

FEDERAL FMJ – 1240 – 3 1/4″

FEDERAL JHP – 1046 – 1 5/8″

WINCHESTER FMC – 130 – 1 5/8″

WINCHESTER JHP – 1258 – 2 7/8″

The Lady Smith

Smith & Wesson J-frames are not only naturals for hikers, campers, fisherman, and even as packin’ pistols by rifle hunters, but they are also quite often picked as defensive pistols by women. In fact, Smith & Wesson has gotten quite a bit of mileage out of its Lady Smith program which began in the last century with a .22 designed to be carried by ladies for protection as they rode their bicycles. The story is that this gun was dropped from production when Joseph Wesson discovered it was being carried less by ladies on bicycles and more by ladies of the night.

A few years back the Lady Smith was resurrected as a variation of the Model 36/60 .38 Special and later as a Model 39 9MM variation. The latest Lady Smiths have been excellent sellers and not only to women. Men who wanted a lightweight, smoothed over concealable weapon have also gone to the modern Lady Smith.

To go along with the J-frames, I requested samples of the wares of

Feminine Protection by Sarah. Sarah uses a very catchy name to offer a serious product, namely purses and belt bags that double as holsters. The handbags and J-frame guns are naturals together and both the Patriot and Classic leather bags supplied accept readily accessible J-frame Smith & Wesson revolvers, and still leave room for all the other stuff that women seem to carry in their handbags.

Both bags open on the front edge to allow instant access to the concealed weapon that many women are going to legally as more and more states are providing licensing systems. The closure system consists of both snaps and Velcro, but they do open instantly when the two halves are parted.

Along with the leather bags came two belt bags or fanny packs. I’m not quite sure I’m ready for a fanny pack but I also remember how difficult it was to carry a concealed weapon last summer during our heat wave. Both belt bags supplied easily carry two- or three-inch .38 Special J-frames. I’m sure my wife and daughter will have something to say about whether these test bags are returned or purchased.

J-Frames and Concealed Carry

In recent years, semi-automatics have stolen the limelight from S&W J-frame revolvers. People often say that semi-automatics are fast, sexy, and common. They hold more rounds than a revolver ever could. Revolvers are old school, clunky, hard to shoot, and slow to reload. However, the J-frame should not be discounted for certain applications, particularly concealed carry.

First, consider a J-frame such as a .38 Special for concealed carry. The gun is small, light, and easy to stow in a waistband, ankle holster, pocket, purse, or bag. Accidental discharge is unheard of in a concealed carry scenario. Cops have an affinity for the revolver when it comes to deep cover since it’s harder to spot than a semi-auto. The bad guys will be used to checking for a Glock or 9mm. Likewise, the J-frame is ideal for civilians carrying on the down-low.

Some people scoff at the thought of carrying a revolver. They may be old school but still offer the best reliability in a handgun. Revolvers seldom jam. If they do, it’s because the shooter has chosen the wrong, or poorly made, ammunition. Revolvers can indeed be harder to fire because of the double-action trigger. Range practice takes care of that unless you have insufficient grip strength to shoot. J-frames are easier to shoot than K-frame revolvers because of a light recoil. This makes them easy to use for beginners and novices.

A short sight radius gives shooters the impression that snubbies are only worthwhile in close proximity. Not true. Although the accuracy is best at 20-25 feet, an article by a retired detective claims he could easily hit his target up to 25 yards. In a self-defense situation, 25 yards is more than sufficient. You don’t even need to pull your gun if the perp is that far away.

The revolver holds less ammo than a semi-auto magazine but considering that the average self-defense scenario requires three shots or less, you should be okay.

Top J-Frame Revolvers for Concealed Carry

Despite popular opinion, not all snub nose revolvers are the same. Here are my top picks for the top J-frames for concealed carry:

Colt Cobra

The Colt Cobra reared its lethal head at the 2019 SHOT Show. This snubby holds six rounds of ammo, has a 2-inch barrel with stainless steel finish, and a fiber optic, high-visibility front sight. The Hogue Overmolded grips helps to cut down on recoil when using +P loads.

Ruger SP 101

The Ruger SP 101 is on the large side for a J-frame but still worth mentioning. This .357 Magnum has a 2.25-inch barrel and a comfortable grip for those that want extra power over a .38 Special.

Ruger LCR

The Ruger LCR is a lightweight handgun that is sleek, stylish, and affordable. The DAO trigger has a predictable, smooth pull. The LCR is available in many styles and offers choices in .22 LR, .22 WMR, .357 Magnum, .327 Federal Magnum.38 Special, and 9mm. Users can opt for 5, 6, or  8 round capacity.

S&W Bodyguard

S&W Bodyguard is the top choice among law enforcement for backup. The semi-polymer frame makes this model a true modern revolver. It’s available with a built-in integral defensive laser for shooting in low light or awkward shooting positions.

S&W 638

The S&W 638 is the original Bodyguard revolver. It’s not easy to find but worth the hunt. It has a shrouded hammer with a thumb tab that allows you to cock the hammer into single-action mode. It’s a great benefit to have although decocking a gun isn’t something for everyone. Still, it’s easy to conceal.

Final Thoughts

After thirty-five plus years of shooting N- and K-frame revolvers, it is quite enjoyable to add J-frames to my shooting battery. The .38 Special three-inch Trail Masterpiece and the four-inch .22 WMR Kit Gun are destined to experience a lot of use in the future and my wife already has her eye on the .32 Centennial. Oh, well we can get ahead next month.

Article used by permission of the author
http://www.sixguns.com/range/jframes.htm

By John Taffin

Bellygun is a term you don’t hear much any more, but from the time of the Civil War up to very recently, that’s what short-barreled revolvers were called. Some people in the gun business tried to gloss over the genre of small, concealable handguns, but the snubnosed bellygun is the most important type of all firearms because it is made for self-defense.

Bellyguns were first offered in the seven-shot single-action .22 rimfire by Smith & Wesson in the 1850s. It was favored as a hideout weapon on both sides of the Civil War. In the first half of the 20th century, every little store had a punchboard with one of the main prizes being a nickel-plated pocket pistol. No forms to fill out, no instant check, no waiting period. You hit the board, you won a gun.

Even in my family, which was certainly not part of the gun culture, I found such a little pocket pistol, an Iver Johnson, among my grandfather’s effects after his death. Today the media has picked up on what was originally a racist term of derision, Saturday Night Special. There are no such guns. Saturday Night Specials are certain people with a certain mindset, not an inanimate object such as a life-savin’ bellygun.

Smith & Wesson’s first double-action bellygun was the break-top of 1880, chambered in .38 S&W. In 1882, S&W brought forth the “lemon-squeezer,” a hammerless double-action with a grip safety. These guns featured not only a grip safety, but also an extra heavy DA-only trigger pull to make it that much more difficult for a child to operate. These guns were very popular as pocket pistols since there was no hammer to catch in the clothing.

I lucked onto one of these in excellent shape in a strange way. My daughter moved into an old house and, while she was cleaning it, she noticed a loose board in the back of a closet. She pulled it out and found a 1 lb. candy tin. Inside she discovered a 1935 championship high school ring, a box of .32 S&W and a .32 lemon squeezer. The rubber grips are perfect, while the rest of the gun is 98 percent with very minor nickel flaking. It works just as well today as it did more than 100 years ago when it left the Springfield factory.

In the 1890s Smith brought forth their first solid frame, swing-out cylinder gun, the I-frame. The little gun was beginning to take on the profile that is so recognizable today. These little I-frames were chambered in .32 S&W, .38 S&W and, in 1911, thanks to a gun dealer by the name of Bekeart, in .22 rimfire. The .22 would evolve into that grandest of all little sixguns, the .22/32 Kit Gun in 1936.

The late Col. Rex Applegate was often involved in clandestine operations from his early days with an outfit known as the OSS in World War II through his commissioning as a general in the Mexican Army. One of his favorite pocket pistols was the .38 S&W. At least until he found himself emptying it to stop an attacker.

More power was needed in pocket pistols. Colt had chopped the barrel of their Police Positive to 2″ before World War II and called it the Detective Special. It was a start in the right direction, but with its six-shot cylinder, it was a mite big for a pocket pistol.

The answer was soon forthcoming. Smith & Wesson engineers had been working to improve the I-frame by slightly enlarging it to take five rounds of .38 Special. In addition to a larger frame, the new revolver, dubbed the J-frame, used a coil mainspring. It was very much like the .38 S&W I-frame except for the extra long cylinder, filling the J-frame window.

To introduce the new pocket pistol, the J-frame was taken to the 1950 annual meeting of the conference of the International Association of Chiefs of Police, You are probably now ahead of me and can see the name coming. The police chiefs voted on a new name and the first I-frame was appropriately given the name of .38 Chief’s Special.

It is altogether fitting that the police chiefs should knight the new five-gun, as it became immensely popular with peace officers as a second or backup gun that slipped easily into a uniform pocket or as a very easily concealed and carried off-duty weapon. For 40 years, until the revolution of sorts in semiautomatic weapons, it was the pocket pistol by which all others were judged.

Not only was the J-frame .38 Chief’s Special a near perfect pocket gun, but also it was extremely strong. The bolt cuts came between the cylinder chambers and the cylinder itself to fill the frame, with no unsupported portion of the barrel sticking back through the main frame as found on the .357 Magnum and .44 Special Smith & Wessons of the time.

How strong are these little pocket revolvers? Elmer Keith reported in 1955 that both of them would perfectly handle the .38/44 and other high speed .38 Special ammunition, as he ran 500 rounds through a Chief’s Special with no ill effects. At the time of Keith’s writing the .38/44 was a +P loading, the forerunner of the .357 Magnum, rated at 1,150 fps from a 5″ Smith & Wesson .38 Heavy Duty sixgun.

I’ve gone even further with my little Chief’s Special. In the pre-.357 Magnum days of the early 1930s, Keith came up with a heavy .38 Special loading for his sixguns that does 1,400+ fps from an 8 3/8″ S&W .357 Magnum. Using this load in a Chief’s Special, the recoil is stout, with a muzzle velocity of 1,150 fps with a 168 gr. bullet from a 2″ barrel. This is not something I recommend and I do not shoot loads like those very often, but it is great to know that option is mine should I need it.

The .38 Special Chief’s became the Model 36 in 1957, the Centennial became the Model 40, while the number 37 was attached to the Airweight Chief’s Special. In 1965, a revolution of sorts arrived in handgun manufacturing when Smith used the Model 36 as the platform for the same gun in stainless steel. This of course is the Model 60.

A favorite little sixgun of hikers, backpackers and fishermen is the six-shot .22 Kit Gun on the J-frame platform. The Model 34 with either a 2′ or 4′ barrel was produced from 1953 to 1991. It then became a stainless steel sixgun, the Model 63, and was subsequently joined by the Model 651, the .22 Magnum version, and the very rare (only offered in 1990) .32 Magnum Kit Gun, the Model 631.

These diminutive sixguns make fine companion guns for the hunter who does not want to pack any more weight than necessary, but can still be prepared to take a grouse, squirrel or rabbit for the camp cooking pot.

The 1990s brought major changes in the J-frame series. All of the older .38 Specials are gone. Today’s J-frame is slightly larger with a 2 1/8″ barrel and chambered in .357 Magnum. In the mid-1930s, a heavy duty, large framed .357 Magnum was looked upon as the ultimate sixgun. Now we have the .357 Magnum chambered in a 24 oz. five-shot pocket pistol. Firing full house 158 gr. .357 Magnums in one of thee little J-frames is a real attention getter. On both ends.

My wife carries Smith & Wesson J-frames. In her fanny pack is a blued Airweight with a 2″ barrel while her purse gun is a 3″ stainless steel Airweight. Both of these are the Bodyguard models with no hammers exposed. From blued to airweight to stainless to titanium, the J-frames keep evolving. Loaded with 125 gr. JHP, I can think of no better carry gun for wife, mother or daughter than these.

By Frank Borelli of Borelli Consulting

Twenty-five years ago it wasn’t a surprise for a snubnose revolver to be a common off-duty or backup gun. But in the 1980s a ton of law enforcement agencies started transitioning from revolvers to semi-automatic pistols and it became more common for compact and sub-compact pistols to become the mainstream off-duty or backup gun. After all, it only made sense to have your backup gun be a high-capacity weapon of the same caliber as your duty weapon. But in 2006 when a major holster manufacturer is prioritizing what model of weapon to make a new holster for, the snubnose revolver was way up on the list. Everywhere I turn – most especially in the northeast section of our country – the snubnose revolver is there in off-duty holsters. It made me wonder just what was so great about the snubnose – because I haven’t carried one for more than twenty years.

Those many years ago, the snubby I carried was a Smith & Wesson Chief’s Special as shown left. The little gun was one of my favorites for off-duty carry and I was careful to always carry a speedloader with an extra five rounds. I had many an “old timer” tell me that I’d never need more than five rounds – especially off-duty – but I just felt like I needed more. Thankfully I never did need that off-duty gun. On duty the gun sometimes road around in an ankle holster. On at least one occasion I had brain-farted and left my duty weapon in my locker – and when I realized that (out on the street) I reached down to grab the snubby and put it in my waistband. Hey… what can I say? I was all of about 22 years old at the time. We all have those moments.

Not one to ever be happy with the small wood grips that came stock on the S&W Chief’s Special, I quickly acquired and installed a pair of Pachmayrs. Of course, the minute I did that I realized that the gun was less concealable. Still, the two-inch barrel (measured from the back of the forcing cone to the front of the barrel) and the slim profile of the five-shot cylinder made it fairly easy to conceal. And it was far better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.

Qualifying with it certainly wasn’t as easy as it was with my S&W Model 15 or the Sig P226 I was eventually issued. As I gained experience with firearms I realized just how important that sight radius – the distance between the front and rear sight – is. Still, basic marksmanship is basic marksmanship and I’ve seen some veteran officers qualify faster and easier with their snubby than with their full size semi-autos.

The other popular snubby at the time was the Colt Detective Special. One thing that I was taught in the academy was that the cylinder on all Smith & Wesson revolvers turned counter-clockwise while the cylinder on Colts turned clockwise. Colt starts with “C” just like clockwise. Of course, so does “counter” but no one ever said that to me so it never clicked. Colts turned clockwise. The Detective Special was impossible to find in stainless steel though and I just knew that any gun that was going to spend time in my ankle holster or pressed up against the skin would rust if it wasn’t stainless. A blued gun just wasn’t going to last. Still, there were folks – experienced cops – who swore by the Colt and cursed the Smith & Wesson. Other knowledgeable shooters I’ve met since then swear by the Smith & Wessons – two of them in fact: one in each pocket of an overcoat. That particular gentleman carries matched Model 66s – stainless steel .357 magnums loaded with .38+P+ loads.

For some cops the decision about which one to carry was made based on two simple things: The Colt carried six rounds as compared to the S&W’s five, and the Colt could be had with a full ejector rod shroud. To me it seems silly to base a decision on ONE bullet, but I’ve never been in a shooting that was one or lost by that ONE bullet. And the ejector rod shroud, while providing protection to the rod, is generally perceived as “better looking” rather than “more functional”. If you’re going to purchase a snubby based on how it looks then say so.

Then, a number of years back, Ruger came out with a snubby that was quite comfortable, offered .357 Mag capability and gained quite a following: The SP101. Although heavier and bulkier than its counterparts, the Ruger enjoyed a reputation for being reliable even under the harshest of circumstances. The softer rubber ergonomically shaped grips gained in popularity with some while others gravitated toward the slimmer profile of the S&W grips.

But here we are in the year 2007. BlackHawk Products Group has been making their CQC carbon-fiber SERPA holsters for a couple of years now. It was no surprise that the first holster they made fit the Glock 9mm and .40 caliber weapons. It WAS a surprise – at least for me – when they made the CQC SERPA for a j-frame revolver such as the S&W Chief’s Special. When I looked into why I found out that there is still a big demand for holsters to transport these little guns. Most especially in the northeast section of our country it seems like snubbies are far more popular for off-duty and concealed carry than any of the popular semi-autos.

So I started paying attention. Last month at the range I had a Chief of Police and his Deputy Chief both qualifying with their snubnose revolvers. Ironically enough, one had an S&W Chief’s Special while the other had a Colt Detective Special. Both had owned the guns for more than fifteen years. For the Chief, the snubby was his primary carry gun both on and off-duty. The Deputy Chief liked to carry his Government Model 1911 .45 ACP pistol on duty but off-duty he pocketed his snubby. Neither man had any trouble qualifying with the small revolver and both had practiced reloads so often that they could almost keep up with those shooting pistols. There were virtually no malfunctions with the revolvers and the confidence with which these men bore the weapon has to have played a role in how well they shot. Both shot scores in the upper 80s and lower 90s. That’s better than many shooters do with pistols.

For men such as those, who have been carrying snubbies for so long that it’s what they are confident and comfortable with, I strongly recommend that they continue to carry them. Five or six shots may be all they have, but five in the chest is still five in the chest and is a whole lot better than two or three in the chest with seven or eight more going downrange potentially hitting innocent targets.

By Mike Askew

Since the mid-1980s, American firearm manufacturers have been reporting that semi-auto pistols are outselling revolvers. This is due to technological advances resulting in increased reliability, modern bullet design, and increased magazine capacity. Although large frame revolvers (Smith & Wesson “L” and “N” frames, the Colt Anaconda, Cobra, and Python series, and the Ruger family of firearms) have always enjoyed brisk sales among hunters & target shooters, those interested in the personal defense aspects of handgun ownership have been turning to self-loading pistols. Although semi-autos continue to make up almost 70% of handgun sales, the market has seen a resurgence of one particular type of revolver—the small, lightweight, easily carried and concealed firearm.

When The Violent Crime Control and Law Enforcement Act of 1994 limited the sale of high capacity (more than 10 rounds) magazines to military and law enforcement agencies only, manufacturers and law-abiding citizens who carry handguns for self-defense began to look at large caliber (.38 Special and above), lightweight revolvers as a “carry” alternative to semi-auto pistols. The major advantages of these revolvers are: ability to handle any type of bullet design, operational simplicity, an even trigger pull, small size, ability to be fired multiple times while concealed and they are manufactured in “major” calibers. The main disadvantages of these guns are limited ammunition capacity and slowness to reload. With the civilian market showing increased interest in “carry” revolvers, manufacturers began to produce new products to increase the small-revolver market niche. Colt’s Manufacturing began offering a 21 ounce, 6 round, stainless steel, .357 magnum revolver to compete with the Smith & Wesson 23 ounce, 5 round model 649 in .357 magnum. In a breakthrough in the technology of machining titanium, Smith & Wesson has recently released a 12 ounce, 5 shot, .357 magnum/.38 Special +P revolver with a scandium alloy frame, shroud and yoke with a titanium cylinder. Even though the noxious Violent Crime Control and Law Enforcement Act of 1994 was not renewed, these small revolvers have taken the self-defense handgun market by storm and are selling at close to manufacturers suggested retail price when and if they can be found.

Although these new models are a possible answer to the “What should I carry” dilemma that many citizens face, the problems of limited ammunition capacity and slow reloading remain. Former U.S. Border Patrol Officer Bill Jordan, the fastest and most accurate modern-day gunfighter, was a strong believer in the old adage: “Speed’s fine but accuracy’s final.” Since his duty revolver (S&W Model 19 Combat Magnum) only held 6 rounds and since a combat reload was so time-consuming, he felt that accuracy was paramount.

When reloading is a “must”, there are several ways to perform an emergency speed reload of a revolver and several accessories to aid in the reloading effort. Most knowledgeable trainers of civilians carrying in the concealed mode teach reloading the cylinder from a Bianchi Speed Strip. These small-rubberized plastic strips hold 6 cartridges by the cartridge base and are much more cancelable and easy to carry than a conventional, circular “speed loader.” There is a correct way to reload the revolver from a Speed Strip and, like other operations requiring manual dexterity, this method must be practiced to be successful. The emergency reloading procedure for right-handed shooters follows:

1. Slip the support hand (left hand) under the revolver so as to allow 2 fingers and the thumb to gain control of the cylinder. The firing hand (right hand) thumb operates the cylinder release latch to open the cylinder and the 2 fingers of the support hand on the right side of the cylinder open it. The support hand thumb controls the outward swing of the cylinder.
2. The support side hand now controls the firearm and the firing hand is removed from the gun.
3. The support hand rotates the butt of the gun down and the support thumb smartly depresses the ejector rod to eject the cases. (Note: Additional time and dexterity is required to separate and remove only empty cases from the cylinder—therefore both fired and any unfired rounds are ejected during this procedure.) When empty, rotate the revolver to the proper loading angle while the firing hand moves to obtain and correctly position the Speed Strip.
4. The firing hand should position and insert 2 rounds at a time into the top, outside positions (9-12 o’clock) of the cylinder. Once the rounds are inserted, a slight twist of the Speed Strip will release them and they will gravity feed into position. Use the support hand thumb to rotate the cylinder so that 2 more rounds can be loaded into the top, outside positions. Continue to fully reload. When loaded, close the cylinder with the support hand, drop the Speed Strip, obtain a firing grip and get back into the fight.

Learning motor skills as described above requires physical and mental programming. Once thoroughly programmed however, little conscious thought is required to perform them. This should be the “practitioner’s” goal since time is precious and armed confrontations can be unforgiving of improper gun handling.

By George Hill

I have never really been a fan of Ruger firearms. They have never struck me as being quite right in my hands, and being more of a S&W fan, they just came across as being the second fiddle. My first handgun was a Ruger, a .22 caliber Single Six. And I loved it. It was a great gun that taught me many valuable lessons about firearms ownership. I’ve never really cared for any Ruger arm or even really enjoyed shooting any Ruger since then.

Until recently when we had a little gathering of friends in Utah. One fellow, Ben, brought in a small but impressive collection of some fine Ruger revolvers. Usually when I thought of Ruger Revolvers, I would think of either that little Single Six, or huge hunting hand cannons. My mental image of Ruger wheel-guns was realized in three of the four guns. Large and heavy hand cannons with long barrels suitable for taking down charging rhinoceroses. At first, I had no real interest in them… but for one of the revolvers he had. The one gun that I really took to was Ben’s little bobbed SP101 in .357 Magnum.

This example of the SP101 family sported a nice trigger job that made the pull feel much lighter than it actually was, and soft Hogue rubber grips. These two things made firing the little magnum a real hoot. Even when firing off some of Ben’s custom made hand loads. Lots of power in such a small package is generally unpleasant, but the SP101 delivered all the power without any trouble and put it right where I wanted it. The hammer spur was bobbed making for a perfectly snag free gun suitable for concealed carry in just about any way one would think of packing it. With such a hammer one can not thumb cock the gun to make your shot single action, but the trigger being so smooth accurate shooting wasn’t effected at all.

I had always known Ruger wheelguns for being incredibly strong. During my police academy training, I was introduced to the Ruger GP100 by witnessing one (unloaded) being thrown up into the air, against a brick wall, and even it being run over with a police Impala and parking a front tire on it and turning the steering wheel lock to lock. The gun was scratched and dinged up and had lost the rear sight, sure. But it still worked and fired and reloaded with no problem. If that isn’t a testimony of strength, I don’t know what is. I had never really considered them to be anything more than just Rugged as hell. I was incorrect. With a little trigger work a Ruger can become quite a fine shooter. Thank you, Ben for changing my opinion of Ruger revolvers!

There are a lot of snub nosed revolvers out there to choose from, but out of them all the Ruger is unique. It is arguably one of the strongest of the breed of small framed snubbies. Strength is important even in a small gun. But with that strength comes a little extra weight. Trust me, this is a good thing. Have you had the chance to fire off one of these ultra-air-light-feather weight pocket revolvers? Using a full house .357 Magnum load? If you haven’t, do this; put your Concealed Carry Magazine down, stand up, walk outside to your car or truck and open the hood… and then slam it down on your firing hand. Quite unpleasant. The SP101 is made of good old fashioned honest to goodness stainless steel, not something NASA mills space sprockets out of. The SP101 feels like a real gun when you pick it up, and when you fire it, it isn’t going to punish you for doing it. You can actually enjoy going through a whole box of ammo in one shooting session. Amazing. The SP101 isn’t even what I would call heavy. The two and a quarter inch barreled example weighs only twenty five and a half ounces. Not enough to displace your spine from wearing it on your hip all day, or pulling a shoulder out of socket if you carry it in your purse; but enough to give you courage when you hear your door being pounded on after midnight.

I’ve overheard Gun shop Commandos say things like Revolvers are only for Old Guys. And that snub nosed revolvers are chick guns. These statements while I’ve heard at different times in different gun shops in different states, are just not true. Sure, lots of ladies buy them. Lots of Old Guys appreciate them and still buy them too… but let’s look at those Old Guys for just a second. These are cats that have been there and done that, and with their age, experience, and wisdom, they still select a Magnum Snubbie? That tells me something. These guns work.

The biggest fallacy about short barreled guns is that they are not accurate. This is not true. It has been proven many times that barrel length has little effect on accuracy. This is why Thompson Center Contenders in rifle calibers are popular… because they are indeed accurate while being a fraction of the length of a rifle in the same caliber. Sometimes more so. Where the fallacy comes from is because short barrels mean for a short sight radius, and this makes accurate shooting more of a challenge.

Another bit from my police academy training regarding short revolvers. When I was getting geared up to go, the gun I elected to take was a short barreled S&W Model 10, commemorative of the California Highway Patrol. Sure it garnered some chuckles from the other police cadets in the class when I drew it out for the first time on the firing line. All the others were using Glocks and SIGs and Berettas, here is a snub nosed revolver? He’s going for Detective a little early! The snickering turning to respect when I outshot the entire class with it. The snub forced me to concentrate on the basic shooting fundamentals and focus very hard on that front sight post. That was the difference. That’s also why so many people say these guns are inaccurate. Truth is, if you can’t shoot one of these well, you can’t shoot well. Face it. No, stop crying about it, suck it up, and go out and practice harder. The SP101 is indeed a very accurate little gun. At about 10 yards I was able to keep all five shots almost within the same hole. You can’t tell me that isn’t good enough for a snubbie… or any handgun.

The SP101 is still relatively new to the world. Sturm Ruger rolled them out in 1993, so in Gun Years they are still just puppies. What with guns like the 1911 out there, and the Single Action Army, and the P35 all still very popular; the SP101 is going to be around for a very long time to come. As long as it isn’t sentenced to an early death by either some corporate suit at Ruger or some liberal Senator finally passing an asinine piece of garbage he/she calls legislation.

One of the reasons the SP101 is going to be around for so long is that it gives you a lot of options. You can get your own SP101 in a number of different barrel lengths, 2 inches out to 4. Different calibers; .22, .32H&R Magnum, .38 Special, 9MM, and of course .357 Magnum. Fixed or adjustable sights. These options give you guns suitable for a wide variety of tasks. Of course with all these options you still have two solid facts. 1. You still have a small 5 shot revolver. 2. You don’t have to dig out your old chemistry class book to look at the periodic table to know what the gun is made out of. Uh, the .22 and .32 guns are 6 shots, not five… oh never mind.

One of the things I like about the Ruger double actions is the latch mechanism to unlock the cylinder. Most double action revolvers use a push forward type latch like what S&W uses. I’ve had small magnums using this type of mechanism unlock on accident during recoil when the latch met my firing hand’s thumb. Colts use just the opposite and you pull it backwards to unlock the cylinder. Ruger uses a push in (not forward) latch that is easier to use in my opinion. I also like the looks of the frame and the way the barrel and shroud is contoured to match. Very clean lines. They give the small powerful little gun an almost elegant look.

If you want serious horsepower in your gun, Ruger has a new snubbie out now, the Super Redhawk Alaskan in .454 Casull and .480 Ruger. Perfect for those living in areas where they might be mugged by a polar bear. I can’t image what touching off a super powerful .454 Casull out of 2.5 inches of barrel… I think I’ll go slam my hand with the hood of my truck to see what that might feel like.

For the rest of us living in the lower 48, I think a .357 magnum would fit the bill just fine. .357 Magnum has held for a long time a solid reputation as being a potent fight stopper. Some would argue that fact, but you can’t really argue against a .357 Magnum. Well, you could but you would end up bleeding a lot. There are still a number of police who opt to carry a magnum revolver over a new fangled ottermatic. Accuracy and reliability are advantages often debated in many a gun forum and gun shop.

Ammunition flexibility is one thing that you can not debate. Just take a look at all the ammo options that you can fire through a .357 Mag revolver. Super light target loads, shot shells, heavy hunting loads using bullet shapes and types of all sorts… you just can’t shoot this kind of stuff out with an automatic and have the gun actually cycle as it should. A revolver just doesn’t care about any of that. You can even fire primer powered wax bullet loads and they wont effect reliability. This is why revolvers remain the favorite sidearms of most serious outdoorsmen today. Of course for the majority of Concealed Carry Magazine readers, such specialized ammunition is not the concern. But trusting that your defensive weapon will work at that dire moment when you need it… that is the concern. Everything else is a secondary consideration. You want something that is accurate, concealable, and as rugged and reliable as possible? Then consider a Ruger SP101.
This article is used by permission of madOgre

By Stephen A. Camp

Revolvers continue to be popular in the age of the autoloader and one that seems to garner good reports far and wide is the Ruger SP101. It is currently offered in .22, .32 Magnum, .38 Special, as well as .357 Magnum. Barrel lengths run from 2 1/4″ to 4″ and the revolver is available with fixed or adjustable sights. The one I purchased was in .357 Magnum with the 3 1/16″ barrel and fixed sights.

The .357 Magnum chambering is probably the most common and I suspect that it is sold more often than not in the 2 1/4″ barrel length with fixed sights. Of course, .38 Specials can be fired in the .357 guns. These little magnums are five-shooters rather than six and the swing-out cylinder is used. As the gun comes from the factory, stocks are of rubber with plastic inserts snapped in and retained by the grip screw.

The SP101 is a bit smaller than the S&W K-frame but beefier than the same company’s compact J-frame, some models of which can be had in .357 Magnum.

Specifications:

Weight: 27 ounces
Length: 8″ (with 3 1/16″ bbl)
Height: 4.5″
Cylinder Width: 1.349″
Frame Width at Barrel: 0.774″
Top Strap Width: 0.602″
Top Strap Thickness: 0.204″
Trigger: smooth
Action: Conventional double/single action revolver
Cylinder Rotation: counterclockwise
Sights: Fixed or adjustable (front sight pinned to bbl)
Twist: 1:18 3/4″ (.38/. 357)
Safety: Internal transfer bar allows for firing only when the trigger is pressed all the way rearward. The revolver is safe to carry fully loaded.

Ruger SP101 Comparison to S&W J & K-frame Revolvers

Measurement (in.) – Ruger SP101 – S&W K-frame – S&W J-frame

Cylinder Width – 1.349 – 1.47 – 1.34

Frame Width at bbl – 0.744 – 0.823 – 0.697

Top Strap Width – 0.602 – 0.654 – 0.546

Top Strap Thickness – 0.204 – 0.233 – 0.168

Forcing Cone Thickness – 0.086 – 0.086 – 0.066

The table shows that the SP101 might be thought of as a J-frame on steroids, a compact revolver that has been beefed up in critical areas. Note also that the forcing cone on the SP101 is equivalent to that on the K-frame rather than the J.

Having been in constant production in .357 for over a decade now, complaints on the SP101 being fragile have been few and far between. Why is this? The K-frame from S&W has been associated with some parts breakage when a constant diet of magnums have been used, but the K-frame is a bit larger than the SP101. That means there is more steel around the .357’s SAAMI-rated 35K CUP pressure limit each time a round is fired. What’s the deal here? SP101’s are regularly described as being “built like a bank vault” and praised for their ability to digest huge amounts of full-power magnum ammunition.

I think the answer is two-fold. It has been my observation that most .357 factory ammunition is simply not loaded as hot as it was a few decades ago. Years ago it was not uncommon to honestly break 1450 ft/sec with various makers’ 125-gr. magnum loads from 4″ barrels. Now, chronographed velocities are closer to 100 ft/sec slower. Since the hot 125-gr seemed the culprit in most cracked forcing cones and flame cutting, this slight reduction in muzzle velocity probably alleviated the problem. Combine with that the reduction in size of .357 Magnum revolvers in recent times. These guns are certainly easier to carry concealed than the K, L, and N-frames of years past, but one pays for it in increased felt recoil. I strongly suspect that most owners of the compact magnum revolvers shoot a few full-power loads through them, but do the bulk of their practice with the considerably milder .38 Special. I believe that this includes SP101 shooters, but they are shooting a gun is probably a bit more rugged than the J-frame. Hence, we get the comments on the Ruger’s durability. I am neither a gunsmith nor a mechanical engineer so I cannot honestly say whether the internal parts on the Ruger are stronger than the S&W, or give bold statements on which system is better. It does appear that both work quite well, but there seems to be fewer complaints of the small Ruger having problems than the small S&W when either is heavily used.

There is an area where the S&W usually beats the Ruger: trigger pull and smoothness of action. I believe that S&W is almost always the winner here. Using full-power springs in the SP101 compared to the S&W will almost always result in a noticeably smoother action in the latter. Both the Ruger and the S&W use coiled springs to power their hammers. The SP101 spring is rated at 14 pounds, the S&W at 8.5. The trigger return spring on the SP comes in at 10 pounds while the rebound spring on the S&W is 18 pounds at factory standard. It seems like the Ruger should have the lighter smoother trigger pull, but such is usually not the case. Some folks reduce the trigger return spring a bit to smooth up the Ruger, but if a person opts to do this, make absolutely sure that the trigger doesn’t have a sluggish return for the next shot.

I suspect that S&W perfected the double-action pull many years ago and that we’d have to look long and hard to find better ones on out of the box guns. That does not mean that the RUGER SP101 necessarily has a terrible trigger pull or that they cannot be smoothed up very nicely for they certainly can.

The trigger pull on the SP101 used in this evaluation was smooth, but stiff, and certainly nothing special. It has proven imminently useable however. As it came from the box, it did have sharp edges. These were taken care of using 400-grit sandpaper and a little elbow grease. Others have commented on similar experiences and applied similar corrections. Total time spent was less than 15 minutes. Other than that slight “modification”, the SP101 used was as it came from the box.

Shooting:

I fired the SP101 at 7 and 15 yards. The revolver was fired in double-action at a combat-type target at the closer distance. At 15 yards, the revolver was fired single-action and from a sitting position with wrists braced. Unfortunately, I only had two types of .357 Magnum ammunition available so I included quite an array of .38 Special also.

The chronograph data is based on 10 shots fired approximately 10′ from the chronograph screens.

Ruger SP101 w/3 1/16″ Bbl Chronograph Results

Load: – Average Velocity (ft/sec) – Extreme Spread (ft/sec) – Std. Deviation (ft/sec)

38 Corbon 110-gr. DPX – 1141 – 44 – 18

38 Corbon 115-gr. +P+ – 1342 – 62 – 24

38 Rem 130-gr. FMJ – 821 – 28 – 11

38 Federal 147-gr. HS +P+ – 963 – 35 – 13

38 Remington 158-gr. LSWCHP +P – 906 – 23 – 9

357 Remington 125-gr. GS* – 1189 – 57 – 22

357 Winchester 145-gr. STHP – 1207 – 39 – 18

*Mid-range load.

The SP101 used for testing had fixed sights. Nothing fancy to be sure, but they worked fine and provided a very usable sight picture.

15 Yards:

Observations:

Neither the double or single-action trigger pulls on my SP101 were as smooth or light as on my J or K-frame S&W revolvers. It is slightly heavier but has smoothed up a bit after roughly 400 shots, about half of which were .357 Magnum handloads and factory ammunition. The gun does appear to have its fixed sights regulated toward the heavier end of the .357 bullet spectrum although POI was perfectly satisfactory at 15 yards with the slightly attenuated Remington Golden Saber load.

The 145-gr. Silvertip was right on the edge of becoming uncontrollable in rapid-fire when using two hands. Using one hand, as might occur in a defense scenario, it was not at all easy to handle. For that reason, I will be using the Remington 125-gr. Golden Saber in this gun for now. Other potential defensive .357 ammunition will be looked at as time permits, but the Golden Saber is it for now.

I found the revolver more comfortable than expected when firing magnum rounds. No doubt the heavy barrel and its shroud putting more weight up front to reduce muzzle flip were factors, but I think there’s also much to be said for the grips on this revolver. I found them extremely comfortable and have no plans to replace them.

There were no malfunctions of any kind. Primer strikes were plenty reliable and well centered. Case ejection was positive and there were no incidents of “sticking” cases.

I find the SP101 a little gem. It might be a bit of a “diamond in the rough,” but not by much. I will use this revolver and report back any problems that might crop up. Frankly, I expect none from what I’ve read and now, seen.

Some will opine that 5 shots are not enough for a serious defense arm. I suggest that it depends on the type scenario envisioned. I believe that for me, it is adequate in my now tame orbits. I no longer am involved in police service and my days of kicking in a door to a room full of crack heads are long over. That said, if you do not feel comfortable with but five rounds before a reload, the SP101 might not be your best choice as a primary defense gun. A nice fact is that the SP101 uses the same speed loaders as the J-frame S&W revolvers. A fellow could have the SP101 on his belt and an Airweight J-frame in a pocket holster and use the same speed loader(s) for both. (Obviously, the speed loader would contain 38 Special ammo if the pocket gun were so chambered.)

Some complain about a handgun of this weight for carry. I agree that it is heavier than many revolvers intended for concealed carry. I also find it too large for pocket use, but as a compact belt gun, it is just fine and carries comfortably. Its weight is appreciated when firing magnum ammunition.

Frankly, I cannot see limiting this revolver to “just” self-protection. Though its stainless steel construction makes it heavier than various lighter framed revolvers, that emphatically does not mean that these are hard to tote. Given a proper belt and decent holster, just the opposite has proven true for me. I think they would be a heck of a fine sidearm for hiking, camping, fishing, or just knocking about in the woods.

The gun has no removable side plate. The gun is easily disassembled for cleaning via very good instructions provided in Ruger’s paperwork accompanying the revolver. Some suggest that the frame is stronger as it has no removable side plate as do S&W revolvers. I don’t know if that’s true or not, but do think that these are tough little guns that should easily last a lifetime, even with regular use over the long term. The barrel’s bore cleaned about as easily as a Smith so I assume smoothness is similar.

Though I am not about to divest myself of S&W revolvers, neither am I going to ignore Ruger wheelguns. They have a lot going for them and I remain very favorably impressed with this example.

Best

By Carmon Crapson

Experts argue over the exact specifications of a snubnose revolver. Most will concede that it’s a wheel gun with a short barrel – 3 inches in length or less. Oldtimers might call the snubby a “belly gun,” “bulldog revolver” or “pocket gun,” designed for concealed carry. Modern shooters often consider semi-autos as pocket guns due to their size. However, hammerless snubbies and revolvers with bobbed or shrouded hammers exist to prevent the gun from snagging on clothing, a primary concern in the days before semi-automatic pistols.

The term snubby used to relate almost exclusively to the .38 Special. Today, the firearm uses many calibers, including .357 Magnum, 9 mm, .40 S&W, .44 Magnum, .45 Magnum, .454 Casull, .480 Ruger, and more. Manufacturers of common rounds come from Speer Gold Dot, Remington, Corbon, Smith & Wesson, Hornady, Winchester, and more.

Snubby History

The snubby has a long and vibrant history starting in 1898. Like most new rounds, necessity was the reason for the creation of the .38 Special bullet. It replaced the .38 Long because the ammo couldn’t penetrate the shields of the Filipino Muslim warriors during the Philippine–American War. The military and law enforcement needed something better.

The propellant used in the original .38 Special round was black powder, a relatively ineffective choice. A year later, smokeless powder arrived on the scene, changing the game for all firearms. Today, the maximum standard pressure for a load is 17,000 PSI. Standard +P loading is about 20,000 PSI. Current bullet weights vary from 110 to 158 Grains.

The snubnose owns a large piece of firearms history. Some famous models include the 3-inch barreled Colt Single Action Army revolver (“Sheriff’s Model,” “Storekeeper’s Model,” or “Banker’s Special.”) Revolvers with longer barrels included the “Gunfighter” (4¾” barrel), the “Artillery” (5½” barrel), the “Cattleman” or “Cowboy” (available in several barrel lengths – 4.75″, 5.5″, and 7.5″), and the “Army,” “Cavalry,” “Standard,” and the “Peacemaker” (7½” barrel models).

Historians write at length about other celebrated models including the Webley .450 “British Bull Dog,” Colt Model 1877 Double Action “Lightning” .38 Long Colt, .32 caliber Smith & Wesson Safety Hammerless, The FitzGerald Special (“Fitz Special”), Colt Detective Special, Smith & Wesson Model 10, Smith & Wesson Model 36, and the Smith & Wesson Model 642 Ladysmith Hammerless (“Chiefs Special”), among others.

Smith & Wesson, Ruger, Colt and other manufacturers produce updated versions of the traditional snubnose revolver. Advanced technology has allowed the manufacture of new models using modern materials. The materials include polymer and lightweight metal alloys, such as titanium, instead of the old school carbon steel, stainless steel.

Snubbies vs. Pocket Pistols

Aficionados argue all the time about which is better – a wheel gun or semi-auto. Pros and cons exist for each. Since the 1990s, concealed carrying is more popular than ever, only further igniting the argument. Along with arguing over the best self-defense rounds, bullet weights, and jacketed hollow point (JHP) or full metal jacket (FMJ) specs, is the discussion of being able to draw the gun when needed.

Other than wearing an ankle holster or storing the gun in a purse or backpack, most want a weapon that can be slipped into a pocket or tucked inside a waistband. In that instance, a pocket pistol (semi-auto) serves the purpose better than a bulkier wheel gun. But that’s not the end to the argument. While the pocket pistol is flatter, it isn’t always the easiest to draw and shoot. The snubby offers a distinct profile, making it easier to put your finger on the trigger. That also makes it easier to shoot from inside a pocket or bag.

While a semi-auto pocket pistol fires faster repeat shots than a double-action revolver, it also has a better chance of misfiring or jamming, neither of which is helpful in a critical situation. While terminal performance and reaching safety are paramount, statistics show that the probability of actually firing a handgun in a self-defense situation is small. Drawing down is the key to scaring off an attacker. In that case, either handgun will do.

Snubnose Ballistics

Despite the variety of snubnose revolvers on the market today, the primary battle continues between the .38 Spl and .357 Magnum. It’s the closest we come to comparing apples to apples in a snubnose world.

One confusing fact about the two rounds is that they are nearly identical in their design. Take the .38 Spl:

• Parent case: .38 Long Colt
• Case type: Rimmed, straight
• Bullet diameter: .357 in (9.1 mm)
• Neck diameter: .379 in (9.6 mm)
• Base diameter: .379 in (9.6 mm)
• Rim diameter: .44 in (11 mm)
• Rim thickness: .058 in (1.5 mm)
• Case length: 1.155 in (29.3 mm)
• Overall length: 1.55 in (39 mm)
• Case capacity: 23.4 gr H2O (1.52 cm3)
• Primer type: Small Pistol

Then the .357 Magnum:

• Parent case: .38 Special
• Case type: Rimmed, straight
• Bullet diameter: .357 in (9.1 mm)
• Neck diameter: .379 in (9.6 mm)
• Base diameter: .379 in (9.6 mm)
• Rim diameter: .44 in (11 mm)
• Rim thickness: .060 in (1.5 mm)
• Case length: 1.29 in (33 mm)
• Overall length: 1.59 in (40 mm)
• Case capacity: 26.2 gr H2O (1.70 cm3)
• Primer type: Small Pistol Magnum

As you can see, the ballistics of two are nearly identical. The critical point is that the .38 Special round fires in a .357, but the reverse is not true, due to the increased pressure of the .357.

FBI standards determine the parameters of most terminal ballistics tests. The FBI established ballistics protocols after the 1986 Miami Shootout, where several agents were wounded or killed. The FBI’s terminal ballistics testing states that a handgun bullet must penetrate between 12″ and 18″ in 10 percent ordnance ballistic gelatin. This test offers no guarantee that the round will penetrate flesh and bone out on the street, but indicates that it will be effective in taking down a target.

The .38 Special round delivers a maximum average pressure of 17,000 PSI. Average penetration is about 12 inches, depending on testing variables. The .38 Special+P ammo, suitable in most medium frame revolvers, delivers a maximum average pressure of 20,000 PSI, with an average penetration of 13-14 inches in ballistic gelatin. The .357 Magnum delivers a maximum average pressure of 35,000 PSI, with an average penetration of more than 16 inches.

Naturally, ballistics will vary depending on the size of the barrel, bullet weight, brand of ammo, and other factors. However, it is clear that the ballistics of both rounds perform well in a snubby, especially when it comes to self-defense.

The last thing worth mentioning is using high pressure or +p loads in older snubbies. The information on antique weapons is often scarce. Ballistics and testing standards didn’t exist when the weapons were manufactured, so there is a chance of miscalculating what one can handle. Added to that, metal fatigue, substandard materials, and unseen cracks can pose a real danger to the shooter that wants to experiment with modern ammo.

For more information on Snubnose ammo ballistics please see the information below:

Firearm: Colt Diamondback
Barrel Length: 2.5″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.355″
Bullet Weight: 100 grains
Make: Cor-Bon Pow R Ball
Velocity: 1481 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.565″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 77.3 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: S&W M60
Barrel Length: 2.0″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 110 grains
Make: Federal JHP Hydra-Shok
Velocity: 838 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.610″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 107.0 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: Colt Diamondback
Barrel Length: 2.5″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 110 grains
Make: Winchester STHP
Velocity: 863 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.380″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 109.6 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: Colt Diamondback
Barrel Length: 2.5″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 110 grains
Make: Winchester STHP
Velocity: 882 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.560″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 110.0 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: S&W M60
Barrel Length: 2.0″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 110 grains
Make: Winchester JHP +P
Velocity: 887 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.515″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 109.0 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: S&W M60
Barrel Length: 2.0″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 125 grains
Make: CCI JHP
Velocity: 893 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.365″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 108.5 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: Colt Diamondback
Barrel Length: 2.5″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 125 grains
Make: Federal JHP Hi-Shok
Velocity: 882 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.597″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 124.7 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: S&W M60
Barrel Length: 2.0″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 125 grains
Make: Hornady JHP XTP
Velocity: 846 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.400″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 125.0 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: Colt Diamondback
Barrel Length: 2.5″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 125 grains
Make: Remington JHP GS
Velocity: 986 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.650″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 125.0 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 15′

---

Firearm: S&W M60
Barrel Length: 2.0″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 125 grains
Make: Speer JHP GD
Velocity: 914 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.592″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 123.5 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: Colt Diamondback
Barrel Length: 2.5″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 130 grains
Make: Winchester JHP SXT
Velocity: 927 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.629″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 129.4 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 15′

---

Firearm: Colt Diamondback
Barrel Length: 2.5″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 135 grains
Make: Speer JHP GD
Velocity: 792 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.600″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 133.3 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: S&W M-10
Barrel Length: 2.0″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 135 grains
Make: Speer JHP GD +P
Velocity: 798 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.585″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 134.0 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: Ruger GA32
Barrel Length: 2.75″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 147 grains
Make: Federal JHP Hydra-Shok
Velocity: 843 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.592″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 145.5 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: Ruger GA32
Barrel Length: 2.75″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 147 grains
Make: Federal JHP Hydra-Shok
Velocity: 865 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.644″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 143.5 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: S&W M60
Barrel Length: 2.0″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 158 grains
Make: Winchester Lead SWCHP
Velocity: 831 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.434″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 157.0 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 20′

---

Firearm: Colt Diamondback
Barrel Length: 2.5″
Caliber: .38 Special
Bullet Diameter: 0.357″
Bullet Weight: 158 grains
Make: Winchester Lead SWCHP
Velocity: 882 FPS
Recovered Bullet Diameter: 0.487″
Recovered Bullet Weight: 156.6 grains
Distance From Muzzle: 10′

---

COMPARISON LOADINGS FOR THIS CALIBER

.38 Special

S&W M-60 – 2.0 Inch Barrel

BRAND BULLET WEIGHT (grains) BULLET TYPE CASE POWDER POWDER CHARGE (grains) PRIMER 1 2 3 4 5 6 SD (FPS) ES (FPS) AVE (FPS)

Federal 110 JHP Hydra-Shok Factory Factory Factory Factory 830 825 854 867 849 17 42 845

Winchester 110 JHP +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 916 870 901 825 862 36 91 875

CCI 125 JHP +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 862 887 878 846 835 22 52 862

Federal 125 JHP Hi-Shok +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 857 827 837 841 843 11 30 841

Hornady 125 JHP XTP Factory Factory Factory Factory 911 841 842 906 845 36 70 869

Remington 125 JHP GS +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 919 899 932 923 931 13 33 921

Speer 125 JHP GD +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 862 895 917 920 903 23 58 899

Federal 129 JHP Hydra-Shok +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 788 823 820 813 796 15 35 808

UMC 130 FMJ FP Factory Factory Factory Factory 757 724 739 729 755 15 33 741

Winchester 130 JHP SXT +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 923 845 861 858 883 31 78 874

Federal 148 Lead WC Match Factory Factory Factory Factory 681 694 682 665 665 12 29 677

Winchester 158 Lead HP +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 787 814 818 801 829 16 42 810

BRAND BULLET WEIGHT (grains) BULLET TYPE CASE POWDER POWDER CHARGE (grains) PRIMER 1 2 3 4 5 6 SD (FPS) ES (FPS) AVE (FPS)

COMPARISON LOADINGS FOR THIS CALIBER

.38 Special

Colt Diamondback – 2.5 Inch Barrel

BRAND BULLET WEIGHT (grains) BULLET TYPE CASE POWDER POWDER CHARGE (grains) PRIMER 1 2 3 4 5 6 SD (FPS) ES (FPS) AVE (FPS)

Cor-Bon 100 Pow R Ball Factory Factory Factory Factory 1495 1504 1463 1465 1472 1506 19 43 1484

Federal 110 JHP Hydra-Shok Factory Factory Factory Factory 891 859 861 877 890 865 14 32 874

Winchester 110 STHP Factory Factory Factory Factory 922 904 906 942 912 927 14 38 918

Winchester 110 JHP +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 914 962 974 972 989 960 26 75 962

CCI 125 JHP +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 943 925 904 910 878 860 30 83 903

Federal 125 JHP Hi-Shok +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 911 945 954 965 941 914 22 54 938

Hornady 125 JHP XTP Factory Factory Factory Factory 920 900 884 887 898 910 14 36 900

Remington 125 JHP GS +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 1011 1016 1024 1000 1010 1019 8 24 1013

Speer 125 JHP GD +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 931 939 960 894 940 971 27 77 939

Federal 129 JHP Hydra-Shok +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 812 852 882 853 856 853 22 70 851

UMC 130 FMJ FP Factory Factory Factory Factory 796 776 758 766 16 38 774

Winchester 130 JHP SXT +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 913 927 937 915 879 918 20 58 915

Speer 135 JHP GD +P Factory Factory Factory Factory 838 827 838 816 839 817 10 23 829

Federal 148 Lead WC Match Factory Factory Factory Factory 716 699 681 699 687 699 12 35 697

Winchester 158 Lead SWC HP Factory Factory Factory Factory 873 902 895 888 889 849 19 53 883

BRAND BULLET WEIGHT (grains) BULLET TYPE CASE POWDER POWDER CHARGE (grains) PRIMER 1 2 3 4 5 6 SD (FPS) ES (FPS) AVE (FPS)

COMPARISON LOADINGS FOR THIS CALIBER

.38 Special

Ruger GA-32 – 2.75 Inch Barrel

BRAND BULLET WEIGHT (grains) BULLET TYPE CASE POWDER POWDER CHARGE (grains) PRIMER 1 2 3 4 5 6 SD (FPS) ES (FPS) AVE (FPS)

Federal 147 JHP Hydra-Shok +P+ Factory Factory Factory Factory 904 905 893 7 12 901

BRAND BULLET WEIGHT (grains) BULLET TYPE CASE POWDER POWDER CHARGE (grains) PRIMER 1 2 3 4 5 6 SD (FPS) ES (FPS) AVE (FPS)

This information was developed by Carmon Crapson and posted by Stephen Ricciardelli. It is used by permission only.

Visit Steve’s Terminal Performance Page

By Gabe Suarez

Jeff Cooper once told me that, in the old days of training, half of a typical pistol class would be comprised of auto-loading handguns Typically Browning/Colt types. The other half, usually police officers, would be armed with revolvers. He said that this trend slowly began to change in the early eighties. By the time I attended his courses in the late eighties, it was rare to see a revolver-armed student.

This trend was also seen in law enforcement. I went through my original Police Academy pistol training, back in the old days, with a revolver (S&W Model 67). The most common sidearm for many officers, at that time, was some sort of Smith & Wesson or Colt revolver, usually .38 Special or .357 Magnum. Today, however, you rarely see revolvers in the field, and then only in the holsters of older officers, usually just months from retirement. Most of the newer breed sport Glocks, Berettas, and other ultra-modern handguns. The feeling among many officers is that the wheel gun is obsolete. For many, its only true role is that of last-ditch backup in the form of a 2 Barreled .38 snobby. Is the revolver obsolete? Lets think about this.

While, I am one of those who favors a modern handgun (Glock in my case), I am not so quick to dismiss a good revolver. The revolver is very effective as a fighting tool. All you need do to verify that is study your history. A fighting handgun, regardless of design, is intended for a specific mission. That mission, specifically, is to allow its operator to respond to unanticipated threats, quickly and in a powerful manner. That mission is the same today, as it was 50 years ago. These confrontations have always been characterized by high intensity, short duration violence, where so-called firepower is rarely an issue. Of greater importance is the ability to deal the adversary a solid and powerful blow, before he does the same to you. Most revolvers designed for anti-personnel use fulfill that mission as well as any other handgun, but no handgun is powerful enough to come with a 100% guarantee. Sometimes a follow-up shot or two is needed. So controllability becomes an issue.

Many fighting revolvers are of the .38/.357 caliber family. This will do fine as long as careful ammunition selection takes place. Some .357 magnum loads, for example, are dramatically over-penetrative and exhibit excessive muzzle flash. Other loads, which are just as effective against humans, do not share the same characteristics of penetration and muzzle flash.

Revolvers are also available in .40/.44 caliber. In my opinion, although larger than their 357 caliber cousins, provide a greater potential of creating damage to the adversary. Be careful with load selection again. It is a rare individual who can control a full-house .44 magnum in hammers and multiple target engagements. Don’t trust your life to magic bullet propaganda. A thorough study of the literature available from forensic specialists on wound trauma, and terminal ballistics should be your guide.

While on the issue of weapon control, mention must be made of the stocks on a revolver (No, Grasshopper They are not called Grips). Many of the wooden stocks originally sold on revolvers were there as almost an after thought. This has changed in recent years as revolver manufacturers attempt to regain a share of the market. These weapons are now being sold with more suitable stocks from the factory. Whether you retain the factory stocks or purchase some type of after-market stocks, be certain that the left-side panel allows clearance for speed-loader insertion and manipulation. If this is not the case, either change them, or modify them.

Additionally, any sharp edges or points on a weapon intended for combative use are to be avoided. Briskly rub your hands all over the revolver. Anyplace you find a sharp edge, remove it. Do this even if refinishing the weapon is needed as a result. This is not an issue with the stainless steel revolvers, but it may with a blue steel weapon. Skill requires practice, both dry and live-fire. This is something you’ll probably avoid if your gun tears up your hands so much that you need to keep some bandages and plasma around when you practice.

Along with control, accuracy is of great importance. The two things on a revolver affecting this the most, assuming that everything is in working order, are the sights and the trigger. Revolver sights come in adjustable and fixed varieties. Either one is acceptable, as long as they are easy to see quickly under stress, and in dim light. Avoid any sights that are extremely high profile, or which have sharp edges. Again, sharp, hand-slashing points may be rounded off with a file. For those who operate in low light environments, tritium sights are available for many revolvers.

The actual trigger on most revolvers is suitable as issued. It should not be excessively wide, nor should it have grooves or other additions on its face. Smooth and polished is the best type of trigger face. Remember, most combat revolver shooting will be done in double action, so a trigger that allows easy double action work is preferred. There is little that the individual can do in order to alter the actual weight of the trigger press. This is the realm of the revolver-gunsmith. Whatever you do, do not cut the springs on your revolver. If you wish a lighter, smoother trigger, you can have one, but there are no shortcuts here.

Revolvers are issued with all sorts of barrel lengths. Again, keep sight of the mission. These weapons will be carried in and presented from a holster. A very long barrel will be slow and difficult to maneuver. Similarly detrimental, an extremely short barrel will sacrifice other mission requirements. A good compromise is something in the 4 inch to 6 inch range.

Those are all the requirements of a fighting revolver. I have found that when compared to the auto-loading pistols, unless the test is slanted toward the auto-loader with excessive and unrealistic speed loading requirements, the revolver is just as useful. With proper ammunition, the revolver gives away nothing to the auto-loader in terms of terminal ballistics. The only area where it is surpassed by the auto-loader is when long strings of fire are faced, requiring constant reloading. Remember, however, that such scenarios are rare in the real world. Even when such problems arise, such as a North Hollywood Robbery type of incident, they are probably not going to get solved any better if you are equipped with an auto-loading pistol! No handgun equipped operator will do well in a rifle fight.

The revolver skills that an operator must have to be effective are the same ones he would need if equipped with an auto-loader. Constant attention must be given to double action trigger manipulation. This is the heart of the wheel gun, so dry practice the DA trigger day and night. Along with this, manipulating Speed Loaders is of great importance, as is developing ability to maneuver individual rounds during tactical reloads. This is the only weakness of the revolver, so make allowance for that. In order to be the best you can be with the revolver, it is essential to seek out and obtain professional instruction.

Is the revolver dead? In a word, no. I suspect that as we enter the next century, however, there will be very few revolvers in the duty holsters of police officers, or security personnel. For those who are required to carry it, or for those who favor its simplicity, the revolver will still allow them to do just as well in a confrontation as any space-gun, as long as the operator does his part. As we’ve always said, It is the man, and not the weapon which makes the difference.

Visit Gabe’s Site (Or better yet, take a course from him.)

By Ronald S. Markowitz

When I obtained my “Pennsylvania License To Carry Firearms” I spent a considerable length of time mulling over what type of handgun to carry. Like most of you I read all the “how-to” articles in the popular gun magazines by all the so-called “experts” and spoke to people I knew that carried.

I came to several conclusions:

1. The gun had to be as close to 100% reliable with factory ammo as possible;
2. It had to be chambered in a caliber with good stopping power;
3. I had to feel comfortable with the piece, i.e., it had to have good ergonomics for me; and
4. It had to be easily concealable in the type of clothing that I wear.

You should know that I have a thing for Smith & Wesson revolvers, especially the L frame 586 and 686. While it is possible to carry these revolvers using any these revolvers using an inside-the-waistband holster covered by a jacket or photographer’s vest, they are really too large and heavy for the way I dress, which is usually in khaki pants with a tucked-in shirt. What I needed was a revolver that was small enough to fit in a pants pocket and chambered for a powerful, yet controllable cartridge.

But I have gotten ahead of myself, why a revolver and not a semi-auto?

I will not get into the revolver versus semi-auto argument; there are hundreds if not thousands of articles in the gun literature on this subject. In my opinion, with the current state-of-the art in ammunition and firearms manufacture there are no practical differences in reliability between the two types. The advantages of easier repair and greater firepower possessed by the semi-auto are only of concern in the military. The civilian needs reliability, good stopping power and the ability to get hits in the kill zone. My decision was to go to the revolver because of familiarity, but for you the same thought-process might lead to the semi-auto.

So I decided on a small revolver, but I wanted something better than a .38 Special if possible, although I could live with that if necessary. In the last several years all the major revolver manufacturers with the exception of Colt have developed small 5-shot .357 S & W Magnums. I decided to limit my search to the bobbed-hammer Ruger SP 101 and their SP 101 and the Smith & Wesson Model 640-1. If I had seen one, I might have considered the Smith M940 in 9 x 19 mm.

Both the Smith and Ruger were well built, felt good in the hand and had, to my surprise, equivalent trigger pulls. The 640-1 had the advantage of a totally enclosed action, important in a pocket gun as you don’t have to worry about lint getting into the action. The Smith had one other advantage. Because of being totally enclosed rather than being just bobbed, one can safely fire the piece in your pocket without worrying about jams due to the hammer catching on something.

Now the subjective enters in I just prefer Smiths. Rugers are good but they are not a Smith. Rugers remind me of Russian guns — strong and reliable, but without finesse. So I went with the 640-1. In a recent review of the Ruger SP101 and S & W 640-1 in Gun Test Magazine the authors chose the Ruger as number one in this category, but also spoke highly of the Smith. You might agree.

Ammunition

When the snubby .357 Magnums were introduced by Smith & Wesson, Rossi and Taurus (in response to Ruger who had started everything with its SP 101) all the gun magazines ran articles comparing the revolvers. A constant thread that ran through all the articles all the articles was how difficult it was to control the heavy and very uncomfortable recoil. It was suggested that maybe the smart shooter should not use the magnum loads, but instead use +P .38 Special loads. I thought that if this was the case, why chamber the guns for the magnum cartridge in the first place? All the reviewers had made the same error, they tested full blown 125 grain and 158 grain loads. They neglected to test the easier to shot 125 grain medium velocity loads of Remington and the still easier to shoot 110 grain loads available from most of the major manufacturers.

I have tested Winchester 110 grain magnum loads and Remington 125 grain Golden Saber loads. They are both manageable and within 7 yards shoot close to point of aim. Remember we are talking about fixed sight guns that are probably regulated for use with 158 grain bullets. At longer ranges my revolver shots low. I don’t consider this to be a hindrance as most gun fights are under 7 yards (or so goes the conventional wisdom).

I have done some shooting with 158 grain .38 Special P+ handloads out to 50 yards and find the sights to be well regulated for this bullet weight. If anyone tells you that snubby revolvers are not accurate they are wrong, it’s possible to plink clay targets at 50 yards and get hits a good percentage most of the time.

Using these reduced power magnum loads you will get approximately 350 ft./lbs. of energy, putting this class of gun in the same class as a hot 9 mm Luger. This may disappoint you, but we are talking about an easily concealable pocket revolver and not a full size service pistol.

Carrying the Revolver

I don’t like the idea of carrying a handgun loose in the pocket; rather it should be in a holster designed for the specific gun and for this specific purpose. I want the gun to be in the same place when I reach for it, not muzzle up or in some other position that will preclude a fast draw. Pocket holsters are available for snubbies from Kramer, Galco, Alessi and others. My 640-1 resides in a Galco made specifically for J-frame Smiths. I do carry on my belt if wearing jeans that are too tight to pocket carry. This is only if I am wearing a knit shirt, not tucked in, or when the weather calls for an open jacket. This circumstance requires a different mind-set. If carried under a shirt you have to remember to lift the shirt up with your weak hand first before drawing the revolver (pistol) or if wearing an open jacket you have to remember to sweep the jacket aside before drawing. Practice with an unloaded gun!

In summary: I chose a snubby .357 revolver because it provides reliability, power, conceal-ability and handling familiarity. I gave up firepower because I don’t consider this to be of major importance in a personal defense situation. The ammunition I use is more suitable than full power loads because it’s controllable and I made sure I knew where its point-of-impact was. I chose a holster that secured the revolver in my pocket and allowed easy access.

This was my solution to the problems of concealed carry, yours might be different, depending on your circumstances, but you need to give it a good deal of thought.

This article is republished with consent of the author.